During the entire ride on the Cassiar and also heading west on the Alaska Highway from Lake Watson to Whitehorse, I kept asking all the bikers that I’d come across riding south if there were any bikers heading north. All of them told me there is a Canadian two days ahead and a “crazy” Bulgarian a day ahead. I knew that I probably wouldn’t catch up with the Canadian, and I wasn’t sure that I wanted to catch up with the Bulgarian.
As I approached the visitor center in Dawson, a bike over loaded was leaning against the building. I saw it and instantly knew who it belonged to. I went in and walked straight over to the man hunched over his phone checking messages. Are you the Bulgarian bike rider, I asked. He seemed confused but said, “Yes.” The rest, you will see, is history.
Another biker, Rene from Germany, rolled up to the visitor center as well but he was only going to the junction to the Dempster then heading south. We decided to ride together and stay the first night in the abandoned house (protected from the rain) and start the Dempster the following day. And so begins the Adventure…
So, the boys rode with a rack of beer between them and managed to find a fifth of unopened Vodka in the abandoned house. What luck. That, together with a couple grams of pot (legal in the Yukon) and a pack of cigarettes “we” were good to go. Of course all of that was polished off before we even began the ride the next day.
During the ride to the junction, it was obvious that I was a much faster rider – not because I’m all that but because Mr. Bulgaria was virtually carrying his house. After a couple of hours of riding together, we decided to split up and then meet back up at the end of the day to camp. And so this was the basic pattern. I did have to wild camp one night on my own. I rode from 10am to 10pm that day. If a griz was going to maul me to death, I wanted to be in REM sleep.
Starting the Dempster Hwy. Can’t believe I’m here. Just me and nature at the northern edge of Canada. Scenery is changing to boreal forest. Much welcomed shelter. The road after rain and after Eagle Plains (the half way point). The road after Inuvik. Tundra as far as the eye can see. The end of the Dempster Hwy. 
A long day of rain and mud. Mid August and the snow begins. The mythical Tuktoyaktuk. The Arctic Ocean. Check!
Discover more from Dispatches From a Long and Bumpy Road
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
People along the way make it interesting! Great stories…looking forward to more. Happy trails up there!
That was great, Denise! So glad you made it safe and cant wait to hear more!Barbara
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
Thanks, Barbara! It’s been amazing.
Thanks Barbara! Definitely more coming. The adventure continues.
Just amazing Dee!
Too bad you didn¹t bike the last section BUT
As the saying goes the journey, not the destination!
What a journey you had. Thanks for sharing! Let me know your next plans, teaching/working again this fall? Or?
Next bike trip? Too soon?
Who knows, maybe a coffee/beer sometime to share face to face.
All the best Gerald
Ya, I was bummed that the weather took a turn for the worse, but glad I was able to grind through it as much as I did. I’m still on the road and don’t want it to end. I’ll start dreaming about the next trip as soon as I regroup after this one.
About three years ago I started riding in South America with this woman who didn’t call herself a “biker” but seemed to have a good case of wanderlust. Forward, she certainly has an apatite for adventure and ride with gusto! Hope to hear many more stories.
Ha, good memory! Ok, maybe I am a biker? Busted!!