Haida Gwaii (formally Queen Charlotte Island)

I spent eight days on the gorgeous island of Haida Gwaii and all but one was rainy. One day it poured for about 12 hours straight. I lost it. I wanted to go home. I told myself as soon as it lightens up I’ll take that road everyone talks about, then I’ll call it a wrap. Of course, at the end of your rope, just as you’re completely losing your shit, is where the magic begins. At least that’s how it works for me.

A nice lady invited me to stay in her studio, a Cuban guy sailing from Alaska with a French family invited me to coffee, and surprised me with a few chocolate bars. How did he know that I love chocolate? I went to a community bike fix program started by a teacher and Warmshowers host. I learned a ton about Haida culture and customs. I learned that entertainment on a Friday night entails going around to the various bonfire parties. If they don’t know who you are, they ask who your mother is since it’s a matriarchal society.

By the eighth day the sun came out, and I didn’t want to leave. Part of the reason I didn’t want to leave is because the “vacation ” part of my trip would be over when I left the island. Now the games would begin.

I took the seven-hour ferry ride back to Prince Rupert last night which got me into town at 6am. Tomorrow there is sun in the forecast, so I’ll leave. There is rain and thunder predicted the rest of the week.

In black bear country the bear spray was just a visual threat to any bear who thought he could take me on.

On this next leg of the trip, I’ll still be in British Columbia. In fact B.C. is so big that you can fit California, Washington, Oregon, and a little bit of New England inside her massive borders. It’s as wide as Texas with only two highways heading north. I’ll be on the Cassier Highway otherwise known as “Bear Ally.” Not to worry, I got this.