Phew! Made it to Steamboat Springs, Co. after many hard earned miles and many more feet of elevation. In fact, on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) there is no day where you are not climbing anywhere from 2,000 to 6,000ft. Itās insane. Some days thatās on relatively decent packed gravel and other days itās beastly boulders or squirrelly sand. All you can do is focus on the 5 to 10 feet in front of you and every once in a while let your mind wander to that imaginary pizza or big green salad (and, of course, cold beer) that you will be rewarded at the end of the day. If you can hold on to that image long enough, it will propel you through the day.
O Mileage Days
This is a new term that I learned on the GDMBR. ā0 mileage daysā vs ārest days.ā I have adopted this term because you never ever rest on rest days. On rest days you are washing clothes, grocery shopping, fixing or cleaning your bike, fixing or cleaning yourself, repairing broken items, or looking to replace items you have lost. In short, you are NOT resting. In fact, you are often more exhausted than you were on your bike. So, now Iām incorporating ā0 mileage daysā into my schedule every 5-7 days. Itās the only way to go.
Weather
Every person I meet in each new hamlet, town, or state echos the same refrain: āItās never been this hot, dry, smokey, stormy, or monsoonal here before.ā We are clearly living through unprecedented times. Roads have been closed due to fire. Mudslides cover the road after rain in places where fires have caused erosion on the hillsides. Creeks and streams where bikers (and animals) would normally find water have dried up. Smoke is driving animals (including bears) down into valleys throwing us all together in small spaces, and food sources for everyone have shorter and less fertile growing seasons. As a biker moving slowly through diverse terrain you become uber aware of subtle and not so subtle changes to the environment. You almost acquire an animals perspective. Small changes have huge consequences. Sometimes you have to decide if youāll use your finite supply of water to brush your teeth or make a cup of coffee. Not easy decisions.
Bike Set-up
Iām one of the few out here on the divide route that has a bike touring kit vs ābike-packingā. Ha, I get that now in a way I didnāt before the ride. Hell, Iāve never even been mountain bike riding before this adventure (except for a couple of hours with my friend Sarah two weeks before leaving. A little light bulb went on then, but I choose to ignore it.). So, I weighed my bike in Dillon, MT. turns out my steel bike alone – sans any sort of shock absorbent system at all- weighs 40lbs. Add all my panniers loaded with food and water and that adds another 50lbs. Yep, my super stealthy kit weights a freaking 90lbs. Maybe thatās why pushing my bike up steep hills feels like a fullbody workout.
Going Solo
And, finally…my riding partner, Dana Hansen, decided to stop the madness in Pinedale, Wyoming. He cited smoke and fatigue as his reasons. He just wasnāt having a great time anymore. Itās cool. I get it. We all have our reasons for doing things and not doing things. My āfunā may not be your fun. No hard feelings. Also, Iām a little woo woo. I believe that twists and turns happen to my benefit. I may not know what that benefit is in the moment, but Iām able to suspend belief long enough to let it all unfold (yes, sometimes I kick and scream for a while – itās not all a zen experience).
So, as of Steamboat Springs, Iām fighting off wild animals, riding through wild fires and nearly drinking my own pee as a water source, on my own. And ya know what? Iām nailing it! I have not melted down on the trail once (in 3 days…hahaha). Iām moving forward. Knocking out the miles. Rewarded by the simple pleasures of life, and finding strength knowing that the universe supports me and my guardian angels have my back. Like that first time you jump off the high dive, there is a power in boldness that we can only experience once we have taken the proverbial leap.
Warmshowers
A huge shout-out to the Warmshowers hosts. We stayed with John in Butte who made the best Cajun food ever. We stayed with Tim in Helena who opened his house/art studio to us. And, special mention to Kristi (and Clay, although we just met him for a second) in Pinedale, Wyoming. It took me three days to decide what to do after Dana decided to leave. In that time, I posted for rides, companions, ate soft-serve ice-cream, waited out storms, swam at the aquatic center, hung out in the library, ate at Wind River Brewery and slept. Kristi gave me the space and time I needed to make my decision. At no time did she pressure me to get a move-on. She was kind, gracious and understanding. Thank you for this sacred space Kristi. You wonāt be forgotten!
Fundraiser
First, a big thanks to all you who have donated to Los Buenos Vecinos and their effort to get kids back into school through their hand washing effort! Second, sorry LBV that Iām such a lame fundraiser. I found out that I canāt multitask as well as Iād like. Iāll put in a better effort when I get home. If you donāt know what Iām talking about, please have a look at the fundraiser link on my blog. These are awesome people working their butts off to get clean water to those in need.
Oh ya, one more thing… If you subscribe to Adventure Cycling Magazine, I had a personal essay published in the āFinal Mileā column in the Aug/Sept 2021 issue. Itās called, āWild camping in Woss.ā FYI, itās supposed to be tongue in cheek.
Until we meet again down that bumpy road…
Thanks for catching up,
Denise
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Hey Denise. Great read! Since you are now in Colorado and given what you say about your steel bike, Would you be at all interested in swapping out your bike for a nice (lighter) Titus Moto-lite Mtn Bike, for (however long it works for you)? It comes in at 26lbs. it has full suspension (though can be locked out), disk brakes, and a dropper seat-post for much better control on descents. Plus, it has olive(ish) green grips with matching Crank-bros pedals, and red cable-covers. So….that makes it Uber cool! ;-). I can also swap the pedals for flats that a “flat” on one side and SPD on the other.
Do you know yet when you might be where while you are here? I could bring it to you and then take good care of your bike until…whenever.
Thatch
OMG!! Thatcher, I never saw this post of yours. What an amazing generous offer!! I missed a great opportunity. I guess I was meant to ride a 90lb bike. After my last post way back in Steamboat Springs, I never had the wifi or time to check back on my blog. All I can say is, THANK YOU!
incredible, Denise. you really are getting the full brunt of our strange changes in weather and its consequences in the mountains. We’re all with you, supporting with our vibes.
Ann, (sorry about the late reply), no escaping climate change out here with high temps, wildfires, drought, and animals being forced down into humanland). Ugh!
Go D Go… Im so envious of you… i did send a little chunk of cash to your cause… keep up the good work… hugs. V.
Veronica, you’re the best! Thank you so much!